The Realities of Riding in France: Rules, Fines & Etiquette

The Introduction: The Dream vs. The Law

We all have the same dream. You, a pristine ribbon of tarmac, a field of sunflowers, and the gentle hum of carbon wheels.

In reality, riding in France is 90% paradise and 10% sheer confusion. The roads are better, the drivers are (mostly) nicer, and the wine is cheaper than water. But there are rules here that will catch you out, and unlike in the UK, "I didn't know" won't save you from a fine.

Here is what you need to know before you clip in.

1. The "Stop" Sign is Not a Suggestion

In the UK, a Stop sign at a deserted junction often means "slow down a bit, have a quick look, and keep rolling."

In France, a Stop sign (accompanied by a solid white line across the road) is sacred.

• The Rule: You must come to a complete, dead halt. One foot must touch the floor.

• The Reality: If a Gendarme sees you do a "track stand" or a rolling stop, it is an instant €135 fine.

It doesn't matter if you can see for three miles in every direction. If there is a solid line, put your foot down.

A Note for Drivers

If you have driven your car over from the UK, this rule applies doubly to you.

French police are vigilant about "Rolling Stops." If you fail to stop your wheels completely at a Stop sign, it is a €135 fine on the spot.

Speed Camera Warnings: Also, turn off the "Speed Camera Alert" function on your Sat-Nav. Having a device that warns you of specific camera locations is illegal in France and carries a massive €1,500 fine.

2. The Rule You Will Forget: Priorité à Droite

You are cruising along a nice wide road. You are the "main" traffic. Suddenly, a beat-up Citroën pulls out from a tiny side lane on your right without looking.

You scream. They shrug.

This isn't a mistake; it’s Priorité à Droite (Priority to the Right).

• The Rule: Unless there is a sign telling you otherwise (usually a yellow diamond), traffic coming from your right has priority. Even if they are coming from a dirt track and you are on a main road.

• The Danger: In villages, this is everywhere. Treat every junction on your right as a potential ambush until you see a white line painted across their road.

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3. The "Cheese and Wine" X-Ray Vision

French drivers are generally far more courteous to cyclists than in the UK. There is a strict 1.5 metre passing rule (outside of towns), and remarkably, most drivers adhere to it religiously. They will sit behind you for kilometres rather than squeeze past.

However, there is a catch.

While they won't pass you closely, they will pass you on a blind bend. I can only assume that a diet of red wine and Camembert gives them the ability to see through solid rock.

My advice: If a car is waiting behind you on a twisty climb, don't wave them through unless you are 100% sure it's clear. If they go for a "blind overtake" and meet a logging truck coming the other way, you are the softest thing in the crash zone.

4. The "Teenager" Test (Don't Panic)

In the UK, if you see a group of teenagers staring at your bike, you instinctively check your lock. In France, the mindset is different.

Cycling is in the DNA here. If a group of kids is staring at you, they likely aren't sizing up a theft; they are sizing up your tech.

They are wondering if that is really Tadej Pogačar across the road in his white skinsuit... but then they notice you are riding a Specialized Tarmac SL8 and not a Colnago Y1Rs.

They know their cycling here. So, if they point and whisper, they are probably just critiquing your sock height or tyre choice. Relax and embrace the moment; they probably think you are way better than your time up the local climb suggests...

5. Trains: The TER vs. TGV Lottery

Want to take the train to the start of a ride? Be careful.

• TER (Regional Trains): These are brilliant. Almost all have dedicated hooks for hanging bikes, and it is usually free and requires no reservation. Just roll on and hang it up.

• TGV (High Speed): A different beast. You usually have to dismantle your bike and put it in a bag (maximum 120x90cm), OR pay €10 to book a very rare "assembled bike" slot. Do not just roll up to a TGV with a full bike and hope for the best; the conductor will not let you on.

  
  

6. Lights: Steady On, Strobe Off

You’ve brought your super-bright rear light from the UK to stay safe.

Bad news: strictly speaking, strobe lights are illegal in France.

• The Law: Lights must be steady (fixed beam) to allow drivers to judge your distance.

• The "Pulse" Loophole: A hard "Strobe" (On/Off/On/Off) is banned because it destroys depth perception. However, a "Pulse" mode (where the light stays on but glows Bright/Dim/Bright) is generally accepted as it provides a continuous point of light.

• Do you need them? During the day? No. At night, in fog, or in tunnels? Yes, absolutely.

  
  

7. The "No Headphones" Rule (Yes, even those ones)

This is a big one. In the UK, riding with headphones is legal. In France, it is a hard No.

• The Law: It is illegal to wear any device capable of emitting sound in or at the ear while riding.

• The Catch: This includes Bone Conduction headphones. Even though they don't go inside your ear, French courts ruled in 2017 that they are still covered by the ban.

• The Fine: €135. Keep the podcasts for the turbo trainer.

8. Helmets & High-Vis: The Legal Bit

"Do I have to wear a helmet?"

• Under 12s: Yes, it is compulsory.

• Adults: Technically, no. But given that French drivers often pass on blind bends (thanks to their red wine X-ray vision), you would be mad not to.

The High-Vis Trap:

If you are riding at night or in "poor visibility" (fog/heavy rain) outside of a built-up area, you must wear a reflective vest (CE certified). It isn't a fashion statement; it's the law.

9. Insurance: The GHIC is Not Enough

"I have my UK Global Health Insurance Card (GHIC), I'm fine, right?"

Wrong.

The GHIC covers your emergency treatment in a French hospital. It does not cover:

• Mountain Rescue (if you go off a ravine).

• Repatriation (getting you home with a broken leg).

• Your £10,000 bike.

Check your travel insurance specifically covers "Cycle Touring" or "Sportives." Many standard policies exclude cycling as a "hazardous activity."

10. Etiquette: The "Full Kit" Question

"Can I wear my full white Tadej Pogačar skinsuit?"

This is France. Cycling is religion. You can wear whatever you want.

• The Pro Look: If you turn up in full World Champion kit, nobody will shout abuse at you (unlike in the UK). However, you best be able to ride a bit. If you dress like Pogačar but climb like a tractor, you might get a few raised eyebrows and a sympathetic ”Bon courage”.

• The Ventoux Photographers: Yes, those people taking your photo on Mont Ventoux are professionals. No, they aren't bored. Grab the card they hand you; you can buy the photo online later. It’s cheesy, but let’s be honest, you’re going to buy it.

Summary

• Stop means Foot Down (Cyclists AND Drivers).

• Yield to the Right unless told otherwise.

• No Headphones (not even bone conduction).

• Wave at other cyclists (it’s polite).

  
  

Enjoy the Winding Roads. They really are better here.

Just watch out for that Citroën on the right.