Surviving the Furnace: Cycling in the Heat in France

There is a specific moment when you realise you are being cooked.

It usually happens on a long, exposed section of tarmac in the middle of July. The radiation is bouncing off the road surface, hitting you from below while the sun hammers you from above.

You reach for your bottle, desperate for relief, and take a swig. But instead of a refreshing hit of cool water, you get a mouthful of lukewarm liquid. In that moment, you would honestly be happy for a cup of tea to feel as cool as the fluid currently sloshing around in your bidon.

No memory of heat can ever quite prepare you for the reality of the furnace you feel when you are deep in the red on a French mountainside.

Mad Dogs and Englishmen

I have way more experience of cycling in the heat (usually poorly) than I care to admit. There is a saying about "Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun", and I am afraid I fit the profile perfectly.

The French, on the other hand, are way more sensible. They understand something that we visitors often forget: the sacred pause déjeuner.

Between 12:00 and 14:00, France shuts down. This isn't just a siesta; it is a cultural institution where families sit down to eat properly. So, if you are banking on topping up with a cold Evian from a chilled freezer in the village store at 12:30pm... forget it.

The door will be locked, the lights will be off, and you will be left standing there sweating while the owner enjoys a leisurely blanquette de veau.

The Fountain Roulette

This leaves you with the village fountains.

If you are high up in the mountains, these are a gift from the gods. The water comes straight off the rock, and there is a good chance that drinking it will actually give you brain freeze. It is glorious.

However, a word of warning to the uninitiated: check the signage.

• Eau Potable: Drink as much as you like.

• Eau Non Potable: Do not touch it unless you want your ride to end in a very different kind of emergency.

• No Sign: Proceed with extreme caution (or maybe just splash it over your head).

The Science of Cycling in the Heat

Why does performance drop so dramatically when the mercury rises?

It isn't just in your head. It is a physiological tug-of-war. When you exercise, your muscles need oxygen-rich blood to produce power. But when you overheat, your body desperately needs to send that same blood to your skin to cool you down via sweat.

Your heart is suddenly fighting on two fronts. It cannot pump enough blood to both the legs (for power) and the skin (for cooling). Something has to give, and usually, it is your power output. Your heart rate skyrockets for the same effort, and your perceived exertion goes through the roof.

The Pogačar Effect (and why clothes matter)

We need to talk about your kit. I know "stealth black" looks pro, and it is undoubtedly slimming at the café stop, but in the height of July, you are effectively wearing a solar panel.

The science is actually pretty clear on this. Studies have shown that black fabrics can absorb up to 90% of radiant heat from the sun, while white fabrics might absorb as little as 20%. In direct sunlight, a black jersey surface can be 10–15°C hotter than a white one.

This extra heat load forces your body to work harder to cool down, which is exactly why you have another reason to love Tadej Pogačar's World Champions all-white skinsuits.

I have attempted to pull off the "Full White" look myself (even without 40°C as an excuse). While it helps with the heat, I must warn you: unfortunately, this cooling effect does not extend to white pasty skin.

If you are exposing pale Irish or British limbs to the French sun, you need protection that actually works. Forget the supermarket brands; for long days in the saddle where you are sweating buckets, I find P20 Original Spray SPF50 is about the best there is. Put it on 15 minutes before you dress, and it generally stays put all day.

Can you cheat the heat?

The latest science suggests you can prepare your body, but it takes commitment.

1. Heat Acclimatisation: You need to increase your blood plasma volume before you arrive. This involves saunas or hot baths immediately after training. It tricks your body into producing more plasma, giving you a bigger "reservoir" of fluid to sweat out without compromising your blood pressure. It is uncomfortable, but effective.

2. The Hydration Tab Myth: Can an electrolyte tablet save you when you are already cracking? Well, can an aspirin help with the flu? Slightly, perhaps. It might mask the symptoms for a bit, but it won't cure the underlying issue. Hydration tabs are essential for replacing salts, but they are not a magic shield against heatstroke. If you are dehydrated, you are dehydrated. No fizzing tablet will reverse that instantly.

Why do we do it?

I have definitely had moments, staring at my stem with sweat stinging my eyes, thinking: "WTF am I doing out here today?" Then to top it all, Robert Gesink floats by you looking as cool as the coldest of days in the Pyrénées

But as long as you don't push it into the danger zone, there is something special about these days. The descents feel cooler, the post-ride drink of choice (even if it's just a cold Perrier) tastes like the nectar of the gods, and the sense of survival is addictive.

Just remember: if the village shop is shut, the fountain says "Non Potable", and your bidon is boiling... there is no shame in sitting in the shade of a church until the French decide it is time to open up again.

Practical Magic: Tips to Keep Cool

Science is great, but sometimes you just need old-school tricks to survive the day.

1. Start Cold Your body is a heat sink. The lower your core temperature is when you start, the longer it takes to reach the danger zone. If you have a pool, jump in it before you put your bib shorts on. If not, a freezing cold shower works too. You should be shivering slightly when you clip in.

2. Protect the Tan Lines Do not sit in the sun before your ride. I know you want to top up the tan, but every minute baking by the pool is energy your body wastes trying to stay cool. Besides, sharp cycling tan lines are a medal of honour in this sport. Don't fade them!

3. The Frozen Bidon Trick Fill your bottles 3/4 full the night before and freeze them. As the ice melts, you get a steady supply of freezing water. Crucial Tip: Do not fill them to the top! Ice expands, and there is nothing worse than waking up to find your bidon has split down the side.

4. The Stocking Secret This is a lifesaver on long climbs. Cut the foot off a pair of nylon tights or stockings and keep it in your back pocket. It weighs nothing. If you stop at a café, ask for a cup of ice, fill the stocking foot, and stuff it down the back of your jersey near your neck. It cools the blood going to the brain and feels like magic.

A word of warning for the gents: Just don't have an accident. The look you will receive when the paramedics find a pair of stockings in your back pocket is far worse than any road rash.

5. The Recovery Plunge (With Caution) Cooling off when you get back helps massively with recovery. However, be careful. If you are red-hot and you dive straight into a freezing unheated pool, the sudden temperature shock can cause your blood vessels to constrict rapidly, leading to dizziness or even passing out. Wade in slowly, splash your wrists and neck first, then submerge.

The Danger Zone: When the Straight Roads turn to Winding Roads

We need to pause the jokes for a moment. Heatstroke (Hyperthermia) is not just "feeling a bit warm"; it is a life-threatening medical emergency.

There is a tipping point where your body's cooling systems fail. Symptoms include stopping sweating (despite the heat), cold shivers, confusion, and dizziness.

I wrote this guide to help you enjoy the mountains, but I don't want you to see Winding Roads whilst riding along the straightest valley road.

If you start hallucinating curves where there are none, or if you feel a chill when it is 35°C, you are in immediate danger. Stop riding. Find shade. Seek medical help. No Strava segment is worth your kidneys or worse

Estimate your Hydration

To give you a rough idea of what you should be carrying, I have built this estimator. It factors in the heat, your effort level, and yes, even your choice of clothing colour.